Let's head south of Brazil to the beautiful island of Santa Catarina in the South Atlantic. The island is officially known as ‘Ilha de Santa Catarina’, and together with São José on the mainland, it forms the city of Florianópolis.
Often dubbed "Floripa," it's the go-to spot if you want a slice of paradise without venturing too far from modern comforts. Expat retirees are flocking here, and it's no wonder why.
Floripa's got this brilliant blend of modern amenities and natural beauty. It’s relaxed, it’s exciting, and it’s just the right amount of eccentric. If you’re after a place where you can truly savor the good life, this is it. Welcome to your retirement dreamland.
Climate and weather: the good, the bad, and the sweaty
Florianópolis offers warm summers and mild winters, with plenty of sunshine to keep your spirits high.
Being in a humid subtropical climate, Florianópolis does have its share of humidity, which makes the hot weather feel even hotter. It's truly tropical - lush, green, and quite a bit sticky.
From December to February, the daytime temperatures can soar to a toasty 27°C to 29°C (81°F to 84°F), and let’s not forget the humidity that’ll have you feeling like you’re in a steam room.
This season also happens to be the rainiest, with a drenching 140 to 180 mm of rainfall each month. This is when the risk of flooding and landslides is the highest on the island.
How to get to Floripa
Getting to Florianópolis from abroad is relatively straightforward, but it requires some planning. The city is served by Hercílio Luz International Airport, which handles both domestic and international flights.
If you're coming from outside Brazil, you’ll likely need to catch a connecting flight from major hubs like São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro.
How to get around: public transportation
Travel within Florianópolis is decent, with taxis, buses, and rental cars available to help you explore the island.
While it might not have the sprawling transport networks of a mega-city, it’s more than adequate for getting around and enjoying all the things the region has to offer.
You've got two main choices for getting around. First, there are the blue "TICEN" buses for short rides with free transfers at each city bus station.
Then, there are the yellow more ‘upmarket’ coach buses, running Monday to Friday, pricier but with air-conditioning and covering longer routes.
To save on flights traveling across the country, you can catch long distance coaches at the Rodoviária Rita Maria bus station. The station is just over the bridge on the island part of Florianópolis.
Is a car necessary?
Yes and no. On the one hand, if you want to explore beyond your neighborhood, having a car will save you time and make things much easier.
On the other hand, you have to pay for fuel, insurance, and upkeep, and it does get congested here. Also, parking in the most popular areas can be a nightmare.
Before buying a car, try mix and match various options of public transportation, Uber and renting a car when you feel like going for a drive. This might be a better and cheaper option.
Safety
In general, Florianópolis is a very safe city. It has one of the lowest rates of violence in the country. There are dangerous areas as in any capital, but in general, the city is safe.
However, like any city, it has its share of petty annoyances. Expect the occasional pickpocket or bag snatcher, especially in crowded spots or at the beaches. Just keep your wits about you and your belongings close.
Beaches
Almost all the beaches in the north offer calm waters, making them ideal if you prefer a peaceful splash rather than a battle with the waves.
Now, the eastern beaches, that’s where things get exciting. The waves rolling in from the ocean make this area a surfer's paradise, creating a lively atmosphere that draws in the young and adventurous crowd.
Head further south, and you’ll find the hidden gems. These beaches are less known and consequently less crowded, but they boast breathtaking natural beauty.
Here are some of the best beaches to start you off:
Gravata
Perfect for an adventure. A rugged 30-minute trek deters the average tourist, rewarding you with absolute seclusion in nature's embrace. No commercial clutter, no urban clamor—just pristine, untouched beauty.
Joaquina
Joaquina is an absolute dream for surfers, with a prime swimming spot tucked away at one end. The beach is famous for its sprawling 3 km of golden sand backed by some truly massive dunes.
These dunes aren’t just for show, either—you can sandboard and surf down them, adding a bit of adrenaline to your beach day. There is also a variety of seaside restaurants offering meals right by the water.
Praia Mole
This beach is the epitome of youthful energy, attracting surfers and sun-seekers alike. The sand is soft, the vibe is electric, and the beach bars serve cocktails that could knock out a horse. If you're looking for a place where the surf's up and the fun never stops, this is it.
Barra da Lagoa
This charming spot is ideal for learning to surf, with gentle waves that welcome beginners. It’s a bit of a local haven, with narrow alleys and a laid-back vibe. Sure, it’s a little off the beaten path, but that’s what makes it so special. Plus, there are enough cozy restaurants to keep you fed and happy.
Lagoinha do Leste
Accessible only by a rigorous hike, this secluded paradise rewards the determined with pristine sands and crystal-clear waters. If you’re up for the challenge, Lagoinha do Leste delivers an unforgettable experience.
Best neighborhoods in Florianópolis
Although Florianópolis is an island city, part of it is actually on the mainland. Neighborhoods such as Parque São Jorge, João Paulo, Córrego Grande, Santa Mônica, Agronômica, and Monte Verde on the island, as well as Coqueiros, Bom Abrigo, Itaguaçu, and Abraão on the mainland, are very popular with expats.
Let’s talk about the most interesting areas:
Centro
Centro, Florianópolis's bustling heart, is pretty busy, but not very touristy as it’s not favored by beach crowd. If you thrive on the hustle and bustle of city life, this is your spot.
Shops, restaurants, bars—you name it, Centro's got it. Plus, it's on the island but connected to the mainland by a bridge. Public transport is decent, though the nearest beach is an hour by bus or a breezy 30-minute drive if you’ve got wheels.
Lagoa da Conceição
This laid-back, beachside haven is perfect for catching waves by day and enjoying great nightlife by night. Lagoa da Conceição has a big village vibe to it and is 4 km from Joqauina and Mole, arguably two of the most beautiful beaches on the island.
It’s a bit on a younger side, attracting digital nomads and surfing fans, and in peak season it does get busy and congested. The advantage is it offers cheaper housing, local eateries, and everything else you need.
Itacorubi and Corrego Grande
Very convenient neighborhoods with a shopping mall, restaurants, drugstores, and markets. Both are safe and peaceful. The Northern part of Corrego Grande is especially calm and tranquil.
Both areas are family-friendly, with various housing options, from established private houses to shiny new condos.
The only downside is that they aren't that near the beaches. A good beach is a half-hour drive away.
Barra da Lagoa
If you’re after a more laid-back vibe, check out Barra da Lagoa. It is a nice, easy-going spot, perfect for a quiet retreat. The beach here is fantastic, with gentle waves that are perfect for learning to surf.
The beachfront restaurants, although not abundant, offer a good dining experience. The community is friendly and welcoming, and everything is within walking distance.
On the downside, it gets very quiet off-season, and the vibe changes slightly.
It’s also quite isolated. On weekends and during the summer, the traffic can be a nightmare. You can easily find yourself stuck for hours, baking in the hot sun, just trying to get in or out of the place.
Agronômica
Snug between downtown and Trindade, this neighborhood is hands-down one of the finest places to live in Florianópolis. It's predominantly residential, with supermarkets, leisure areas, and all the amenities you can only need.
Beira Mar
One of Agronomica's crown jewels is Avenida Beira-Mar Norte: a glorious boardwalk, a bike path for cycling enthusiasts, kiosks, benches perfect for people-watching, and ample spaces for outdoor exercise.
This is undoubtedly the crème de la crème of neighborhoods in Centro that exudes luxury and sophistication. It’s a sleek strip that stretches along the bay, lined with high-end, modern condos that boast stunning views of the water. This is where Florianópolis flaunts its opulence.
Everything you need is within arm's reach, from high-end shopping boutiques to top-tier fitness centers. The well-maintained promenades are perfect for leisurely strolls, morning jogs, or simply enjoying the serene bay views.
Daniela
If a sleepy town vibe is more your speed, then Daniela is the place to be. It’s generally peaceful but gets a bit livelier during peak season.
The main beach stretches for a spectacular 3.5 km of golden sand. To the south, you can catch stunning sunsets over the mangroves at the Ratone River’s end. Absolute bliss.
Healthcare in Florianopolis
There are a few well-equipped public hospitals in Florianópolis, as well as private hospitals and clinics.
For your primary medical concerns you can go to the UPA / Centro de saúde, which are small medical centers located in most if not all neighborhoods around the island and the city.
Here you can be seen by a general practitioner and get referrals for specialised care and prescriptions if necessary.
Cost of living
Florianopolis is not a budget location. Actually, it is the second most expensive food basket among Brazil’s state capitals. So, living in this idyllic paradise means shelling out a bit more for your groceries.
Let's see how other expenses stack up:
Rent
An average house rent in Florianopolis is around R9,100 per month ($1,700), while an average apartment rent stands at R4,3555 ($810).
A decent quality 2-bed apartment further away from the fancy beaches can be rented for about R2,500 ($465), but you need to know the areas and speak Portuguese to a landlord to find such bargains.
In general, if you are looking for a decent 2-bed property in a good location (nothing overly luxurious), budget for around $800 a month.
Sites to start looking for rentals:
A word on finding your perfect rental accommodation: a lot of properties for rent aren't online and just have signs with phone numbers posted outside. Check your favorite areas for such rentals and contact a landlord directly.
Real estate
On average, according to the latest data from FipeZAP, purchasing property in Florianópolis will set you back about $3,500 per square meter. Naturally, prices vary widely. A beachfront property in Florianópolis commands a different price per square meter compared to an apartment in the city center.
While the city is not particularly cheap, you can still nab a lovely apartment with stunning sea views without selling your soul. A smallish new apartment with 2 bedrooms in Centro can be bought for around R865,000 (just above $160,000). While for just over half a million dollars, you can buy a really luxury brand-new apartment with stunning unobstructed sea views.
Other expenses
- Basic utilities for a 2-bed apartment - around R400 ($75)
- 2 Mobile phones - around R90 each ($17)
- Internet - R120 ($23)
- Car hire - an average price of $28 a day
Health insurance
Local health plans for 54+ can start from R700 ($130) per month, depending on the provider.
An international health insurance plan can start from $500 annually for basic coverage and go up to $8,000 for comprehensive coverage.
To make sure you get the best value for money, compare international health insurance options from various providers to find the best deal.
Food and dining out
Florianópolis is a seafood lover's paradise, where fish and seafood dominate the menus.
The local moqueca, a sumptuous fish stew found at many beachside eateries, is a must-try dish. And then there's the sequência de camarão, a lavish seafood platter that pairs perfectly with an ice-cold local beer.
For dessert, don’t miss out on cuzcuz de tapioca—a rich, sugary treat made with milk or cream and tapioca.
Of course, you can still indulge in traditional Brazilian fare. The city boasts plenty of "a kilo" self-service restaurants, where you pay by the weight of your food.
Local botecos are also a must-visit, offering cold beers and snacks like feijoada and dobradinha.
Feel like international food ? Florianópolis won’t disappoint. Sushi bars are aplenty, plus there are numerous burger joints and Italian restaurants that cater to international tastes.
For a true gastronomic adventure, head to the mainland suburb of Coqueiros. This area is a culinary hotspot.
The food and craft fair at Parque de Coqueiros every Sunday is an absolute must. It's a fantastic place to sample local delights like salgadinho pastries and brigadeiro chocolate truffles—eating well without breaking the bank.
Socializing
Head over to Jurerê Beach or Lagoa at sunset if you’re after a buzzing atmosphere and a cold beer in hand. With an array of food trucks, bars, and clubs, it's the perfect spot for meeting people and starting a conversion just as a Happy Hour kicks off as the workday wraps up.
Now, for a dash of culture, you’ve got to try a local Forró night. This romantic Brazilian dance is a brilliant way to meet people, and the Floripa scene is alive with Forró parties all year round. It’s not just dancing; it's a gateway to potential romance and a whole lot of fun.
If you're a fan of live music with a twist, Choro Xadrez is the ticket. Imagine a mid-week jazz session, but here’s the kicker—it’s in a tiny kitchen in Rio Tavares. Craft beer flows freely, and the vibe is nothing short of electric.
And when you need to balance out all that excitement with a bit of zen, head to Centro de Ser. This health and wellbeing haven offers everything from yoga and Pilates to martial arts, all in a space flooded with natural light and views over the lake. It is a popular place for expats, so you have a good chance of striking up a conversation and possibly making friends.
Plus, they’ve got wellness treatments like massage, acupuncture, and naturopathy on tap. It's the perfect spot to recharge before diving back into the vibrant Floripa life.
Expat communities online
If you’re new to Florianópolis and looking to find your tribe, check out the Facebook group "Gringoes in Floripa." Here, you can find all sorts of services offered by English-speaking folks: whether you need a plumber who speaks your lingo or just want to know where to get a decent pint, this group’s a great place to start.
Final words on living in Florianópolis
So, there you have it—moving to Florianópolis can be the best decision of your life.
Floripa offers relaxation, adventure, and cultural flair, making it the perfect playground for retirees. It's well-connected and well-equipped with everything you need for comfortable living.
Just remember to brush up on your Portuguese, slather on the sunscreen, and brace yourself for a retirement that's far from ordinary.
You might find useful:
- Living In Brazil As An Expat - a detailed guide on how to move to and settle down in Brazil, including visas, residency, healthcare, etc.
- Best Places To Retire In Brazil
